Stories

Tatsuo Kan (KOJO, Kizuna): Every Crisis, a New Business

By Pete RossOctober 19, 20266 min read
Sushi chef preparing a roll at a wooden counter in warm natural light

Tatsuo Kan was feeding 8,000 people at a single event in Tokyo when he realized the catering business he'd spent eight years building was going to kill him. Not metaphorically. The Japanese have a word for it: karoshi, death from overwork. He had celebrity clients, government contracts, five large parties a day. He also had a wife, Kanako, and two small children he barely saw.

So he walked away from all of it.

The long way to Penticton

The Kans wanted North America. They'd met in Arizona and the pull westward never left. First stop: Sun Valley, Idaho, where Tatsuo planned to open a restaurant. But the American immigration math didn't add up. Thousands of dollars in work visa fees, no guarantee of permanent residency. He and Kanako sat on the couch and talked themselves out of it.

Then Saskatoon. A friend had mentioned Canada's provincial nominee programs. Tatsuo flew out, explored the options, and stopped in Vancouver on the way home. At a high-end sushi restaurant on Robson Street, a chef told him to forget the prairies and move to the coast. The chef gave him an immigration lawyer's number.

When Tatsuo called, the lawyer laughed. "Kan, you wouldn't believe it, but I was just chatting with your wife." Kanako had found the same lawyer independently. They'd arrived at the same conclusion without telling each other.

The family landed in Vancouver in June 2014. Tatsuo spent two years managing a string of Japanese restaurants on Robson Street, training staff across three locations. It was good work, steady immigration points. But Vancouver wasn't the plan. On a flight over the South Okanagan, the couple looked at each other and smiled. "That's it. This will be our home."

They settled in Summerland and put every dollar of savings into a house.

Better guest experience. Bigger nights. $299. Once.

Sold out on day one

Penticton had eight sushi restaurants when Kan assessed the market. He figured he could do it differently. He found a rental space on Skaha Lake Road with equipment included, signed the lease in late fall when foot traffic was thin, and opened Sushi KOJO on Valentine's Day 2017.

They ran out of food on opening day.

What followed was 70-hour weeks, a team that eventually grew to 28 employees (many recruited directly from Japan, because local applicants weren't showing up), and a concept Kan describes with disarming simplicity: "We're not high-end, we're not junk food, not fast food, we're in the middle. We're homey. We're simple and we're fast. We don't even have a dessert."

The name carries weight he doesn't broadcast. Kojo, in Kan's words, means "walking on water, faith in God and trusting that nature and people will support you." Every daily staff meeting circles three words: energize, impress, connection. "We want to hear 'wow.' We want that connection."

When the staff said no

The expansion story is the one that tells you the most about how Kan runs things.

During a slow winter season, he offered his team an out. Fewer covers, tight margins, the honest question: does anyone want to leave? Nobody did. Instead, his staff told him to open a second location and offered to help manage it. KOJO Westside opened in West Kelowna in late 2019. A third concept, KOYA, followed in 2021, a fast-casual sister spot a block from Okanagan Lake Beach.

Then the contraction. Kan sold KOYA in March 2023. In January 2025, he closed KOJO Westside permanently, citing the same problem that shapes every independent restaurant conversation in Canada right now: ongoing staff shortages. The chef who built his Penticton team by recruiting directly from Japan couldn't find enough people to keep a second location running.

The original KOJO on Skaha Lake Road is still open, still busy, still the anchor. But Kan had already started building something else.

The sake maker who doesn't drink sake

This is where Tatsuo Kan's story stops being a restaurant profile and becomes something stranger.

His koji supplier, a fermentation expert named Yoshi Kasugai from Nagano, had been making fermented rice for KOJO since day one from a small operation in Richmond, BC. Kasugai used a four-centuries-old technique: rice wrapped in shiki-nuno cloth, left to ferment slowly and naturally. He didn't own a car. He delivered sake by bus.

When Kasugai lost his building lease around 2021, Kan called him. Two weeks later, Kasugai showed up in Penticton with a condition: the two of them would make sake together.

There's a problem with this origin story, and Kan tells it every time anyone asks. "I don't even drink sake. I didn't really even like sake. But I had no choice. I had to make sake. His fermented rice was too good to say no."

They built a brewery adjacent to KOJO Penticton. Licensing took over a year. Five varieties launched in 2023 under the Kizuna name, including a sparkling sake designed specifically for people who think they don't like sake. The Junmai won silver at the 2023 Sélections Mondiales Des Vins Canada and bronze at the Los Angeles International Competitions. The Nigori took a gold for package design.

"I'm so happy," Kan told Castanet. "We are able to deliver our culture, real culture, to the Okanagan, to Canada."

Every crisis is the next business

While waiting that year for the liquor licence, Kasugai had time on his hands. He'd brought Kan a gift on arrival: soy sauce and miso he'd made using the same fermentation method as the koji, but with soybeans. Kan, despite being Japanese, said he was shocked to learn that major commercial producers press the fat out of soybeans and sell it separately. Not pressing it out produces better flavour.

They made 2,000 litres of soy sauce. Customers started asking about the sauces they were already using at the restaurant. Six Kizuna sauce varieties followed: BBQ, poke, sesame, teriyaki, spicy mayo, and chili. All gluten-free. All except the mayo, plant-based. Kan's framing: "All our sauces are designed for people who are too tired to cook."

His own assessment of the pivot was blunt: "I knew then that this would be a great business. I felt it had more potential than sake."

That sentence captures something worth sitting with. A restaurateur who built a sushi empire, then an award-winning sake brand, now thinks bottled sauces are the bigger play. Not because sushi and sake failed. Because restaurants are labour-intensive, exposed to staffing crises, and fundamentally hard to scale. Packaged products travel further with fewer people.

What other independents can take from this

Kan's story isn't about having a plan. It's about responding to what shows up. A koji supplier loses his lease and you become a sake maker. Your staff refuses to quit and you open a second location. The second location can't find staff and you close it without drama. Every ending funds the next beginning.

The throughline is a willingness to contract. Selling KOYA, closing West Kelowna, focusing the restaurant energy on one location while building product lines that don't depend on hiring sushi chefs from Japan. It's not failure. It's an independent operator reading the conditions and adjusting.

Nine years after selling out on opening day in Penticton, Kan runs a restaurant, a sake brewery, and a sauce company from the same stretch of Skaha Lake Road. He still doesn't drink sake.


Sources: City of Penticton, Castanet, KelownaNow, iNwine, PentictonNow.


Tags
restaurateur profileimmigrant entrepreneurPentictonBritish ColumbiaJapanese cuisinesakeindependent restaurant
Back to blog

Continue reading

Whole-animal charcuterie hanging in a butcher shop at a restaurant in St. Catharines, Ontario
Stories

Zach Smith (Fat Rabbit, Les Incompetents): the chef who left Toronto for a strip mall

Zach Smith spent four years running the kitchen at Toronto's Bar Raval before COVID pushed him and his young family to Niagara. What started as a retreat became a statement: Fat Rabbit, a whole-animal butchery and restaurant in a St. Catharines strip mall, earned a Michelin recommendation, landed on Canada's 100 Best, and sparked two more restaurants on the same downtown strip.

September 25, 2026

Chef's garden behind a small restaurant on Nova Scotia's Eastern Shore
Stories

Kim MacPherson (Lupin Dining & Pantry): Fine Dining at the End of a Gravel Road

Kim MacPherson left Ontario at 18 to chase kitchen life. A Yukon farming internship and years in farm-to-table restaurants shaped her vision. In 2021, she and husband Mark Pehlke opened Lupin Dining & Pantry on their 40-acre homestead in Musquodoboit Harbour, NS, serving a seven-course tasting menu built from their own garden. In 2024, Lupin won Taste of Nova Scotia's Restaurant of the Year.

August 24, 2026

Chef Joe Thottungal's Kerala-inspired kitchen at Coconut Lagoon in Ottawa
Stories

Joe Thottungal (Coconut Lagoon, Thali): the chef who fed Ottawa twice

Joe Thottungal left Kerala for Canada in 1998 with cooking skills and little else. He opened Coconut Lagoon in Ottawa in 2004, spent years convincing diners that South Indian food was worth the trip. When fire destroyed the restaurant during COVID, he didn't pause. He co-founded Food for Thought, served 200,000+ meals to vulnerable residents, then rebuilt Coconut Lagoon from scratch and reopened it bigger than before.

August 8, 2026

Independent restaurant owner reviewing numbers in a quiet dining room before the morning rush
Restaurant tech

Restaurant KPI Dashboard: 7 Metrics That Actually Matter

A restaurant dashboard doesn't need to be complicated. Seven indicators, tracked every Monday morning with data from your POS and a spreadsheet, are enough to tell you whether your restaurant is making money or losing it this week. Here's which ones, how to calculate them, and the benchmarks that matter for a Canadian independent.

September 18, 2026

Empty restaurant kitchen at dusk with apron on prep station
Operations & Costs

Close or Pivot Your Restaurant: The Real Decision

Up to 2,500 Canadian restaurants could close on a net basis in 2026, down from 7,000 in 2025. But most owners who close make the decision too late, or for the wrong reasons. This framework separates the financial signals from the emotional traps, and lays out the pivot options worth trying before you lock the doors.

September 8, 2026

50 spots only

Restaurants across Canada are joining

Everything you need. $299. Once.

Perks, add-ons, no-show gift cards, card-on-file, and automated reminders. Everything for a better guest experience and bigger nights. One payment. No subscription. First 50 restaurants only.

Start with Trudy